The Oil Shoppe is the perfect combination of American desire and Italian method. They make exactly what students like me want but make it with local ingredients and style. It’s basically a deli that makes hot and cold sandwiches to order. They also make fantastic steak fries from scratch. I got a roast beef sandwich with pecorino cheese, shaved artichokes, arugula, wild mushrooms, and truffle sauce. No complaints. I’m definitely going back. The combo was an affordable 6 Euro ($9) and came with the steak fries and a choice of “incredible” barbeque sauce or “special” mayo (both homemade) and a bottle of water.
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Buca Dell'Orafo
I can't remember the last time I was this full. For me there are different levels of fullness: Not hungry, full, stuffed, and dear God my stomach will burst. This night fell into the last category.
We basically had a seven-course tasting menu but served family-style. So I'll just follow the progression of the evening.
We sat down to bottles of red wine, bottles of water, and baskets of bread and foccacia. This was all pretty standard for any restaurant although everyone LOVED the wine and the foccacia. They were finished pretty quickly, but the attentive staff kept bringing more and more.
Our first course was "crostini fiorentini" which was a liver pate spread on toasted but tender crostini. VERY LIVERY. Yet somehow everyone, even people like me who shun liver, loved it. I'm not sure how to explain. Usually people like liver when it doesn't taste like liver, but this tasted quite livery but surprisingly quite delicious.
Next was minestra di pane ribollita, a very famous Tuscan soup that is made of bread and vegetables. This was so hearty and filling despite being the only meatless course we had. It was so thick it was almost a paste and not a soup.
Then there were polpettine in umido, genuine, authentic Italian meatballs, about two inches eand diameter and in a red sauce. Pretty much as delicious as you'd expect.
We next had penne salsicciae finocchietto, pasta with generous hunks of sausage. Is it redudant to just keep saying everything was delicious???
After that was groppa scaloppata al pecorino, seared beef covered with pecorino cheese and served with rosemary, juniper berries, and olive oil. This was fantastic. The restaurant staff seemed unsure we could handle "another meat course," but we assured them we could and polished this off despite our stomachs' protests. This was completely the "I really shouldn't eat another bite but this is so good I'll have as many bites as it takes to finish." Luckily the meat was carefully sliced, as thin as possible while preserving the texture, moistness, and a satisfying thickness.
The contorno it came with was patate in padella, parboiled potatoes fried in olive oil, rosemary, and sage. As with every other plate, this was demolished.
Of course, what would a meal be without dessert? They brought us "Dai Dai." These are basically like ice cream bon bons but a million times better. They are semifreddo (semi-frozen) cream inside a shell of dark chocolate and pine nuts. They are made in a factory here in Tuscany and you CANNOT buy them. The factory is way exclusive and only sells to a handful of restaurants in the area. They brought us two big bowls of them. Everyone tried to have only one, but we finished it.
This was the best restaurant meal I've had in Florence. Ever. So from me and my "fourteen dates," Buca Dell'Orafo gets a standing ovation. Oh wait, we can't stand because our new guts won't squeeze past the table.
We basically had a seven-course tasting menu but served family-style. So I'll just follow the progression of the evening.
We sat down to bottles of red wine, bottles of water, and baskets of bread and foccacia. This was all pretty standard for any restaurant although everyone LOVED the wine and the foccacia. They were finished pretty quickly, but the attentive staff kept bringing more and more.
Our first course was "crostini fiorentini" which was a liver pate spread on toasted but tender crostini. VERY LIVERY. Yet somehow everyone, even people like me who shun liver, loved it. I'm not sure how to explain. Usually people like liver when it doesn't taste like liver, but this tasted quite livery but surprisingly quite delicious.
Next was minestra di pane ribollita, a very famous Tuscan soup that is made of bread and vegetables. This was so hearty and filling despite being the only meatless course we had. It was so thick it was almost a paste and not a soup.
Then there were polpettine in umido, genuine, authentic Italian meatballs, about two inches eand diameter and in a red sauce. Pretty much as delicious as you'd expect.
We next had penne salsicciae finocchietto, pasta with generous hunks of sausage. Is it redudant to just keep saying everything was delicious???
After that was groppa scaloppata al pecorino, seared beef covered with pecorino cheese and served with rosemary, juniper berries, and olive oil. This was fantastic. The restaurant staff seemed unsure we could handle "another meat course," but we assured them we could and polished this off despite our stomachs' protests. This was completely the "I really shouldn't eat another bite but this is so good I'll have as many bites as it takes to finish." Luckily the meat was carefully sliced, as thin as possible while preserving the texture, moistness, and a satisfying thickness.
The contorno it came with was patate in padella, parboiled potatoes fried in olive oil, rosemary, and sage. As with every other plate, this was demolished.
Of course, what would a meal be without dessert? They brought us "Dai Dai." These are basically like ice cream bon bons but a million times better. They are semifreddo (semi-frozen) cream inside a shell of dark chocolate and pine nuts. They are made in a factory here in Tuscany and you CANNOT buy them. The factory is way exclusive and only sells to a handful of restaurants in the area. They brought us two big bowls of them. Everyone tried to have only one, but we finished it.
This was the best restaurant meal I've had in Florence. Ever. So from me and my "fourteen dates," Buca Dell'Orafo gets a standing ovation. Oh wait, we can't stand because our new guts won't squeeze past the table.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Grom Gelateria
Grom is probably the best gelato I've ever had. All the ingredients are organic and seasonal. In true gelateria fashion, each gelato has a unique recipe rather than one base with different flavors added. I'm going to try every flavor I can before they change. For my first cup, I got crema di grom (their signature, cream and chocolate bits and broken Florentine cookies) and cioccolato extranoir (extra-dark chocolate, a sherbet but so rich you'd never guess).
This company has one shop outside Italy. Any New Yorkers are in luck!
This company has one shop outside Italy. Any New Yorkers are in luck!
Via del Campanile
angolo via delle Oche
Florence, Italy, 50122
Tel. 055.216158
http://www.grom.it
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Noe Antico
Noe Antico, for lack of a better phrase, is the carryout counter of Osteria Antico. They’re connected through the kitchen. A true sign of any place formidable in its specialty, only one thing is served: Paninis. There are 21 kinds, with the price for each ranging from 3 Euro to 4.50. ($4.50 to $6.75.)
I got a numero quattordici, which is salame piccante, melanzane, e pecorino. (Spicy salami, eggplant, and pecorino cheese.) It was great. It’s so funny how here, the meats are so strong in flavor that they only put a light amount while stateside sandwich-makers like to load as much meat as possible into a sandwich.
I’m not saying either is better, just different. They were heavy on the cheese though, which is fine with me. The eggplant didn’t stand out at all, but it was nice to just know it was in there. It’s near my house. I’m going back and plan to eventually try all 21.
Volta di San Piero, 6 Rosso
Firenze, Italia 50122
Friday, February 15, 2008
Trattoria Tirovino, redux
So it looks like this trattoria is the first (and in the foreseeable future, only) restaurant that's getting back-to-back reviews. I've eaten other places since but nowhere noteworthy enough to write about. Regardless, yes, it is that good. And now The Girls Next Block can back me up on that opinion.
This was the first meal out that no one had any complaints about.
The owner and same waitress were there, and I think they're on to the fact that I live so very nearby, within yelling distance even. They're so friendly and even talked with the girls and me a couple of times through the evening.
But on to food, this time for a primo, Alison and I split a big bowl of ribollita, a Tuscan soup that is very rustic. It's traditionally made of leftover vegetables and leftover bread. It's very hearty and filling and perfect for winter.
For my secundo, I turned to my trusty waitress again. She asked if I liked "picante," and I assured her I did. She brought me some peposo, a peppery beef stew originating from a small town near Florence. But it was entirely beef and spices and wine. They had apparently strained or crushed all the vegetables, which was fine with me. I tasted garlic, onion, and maybe a little celery and tomato. Great for any meat lover.
All the girls liked their food too. Of course we all enjoyed the olives, bread, and Prosecco. But I saw and got to taste some very appetizing things: Ravioli with ragu, spaghetti, pork stuffed with cheese and artichokes, and a seafood plate loaded with mussels, clams, scampi, and swordfish. And they had a truly amazing tiramisu. Not even comparable to the best kind you find in the states. Incredible.
This was the first meal out that no one had any complaints about.
The owner and same waitress were there, and I think they're on to the fact that I live so very nearby, within yelling distance even. They're so friendly and even talked with the girls and me a couple of times through the evening.
But on to food, this time for a primo, Alison and I split a big bowl of ribollita, a Tuscan soup that is very rustic. It's traditionally made of leftover vegetables and leftover bread. It's very hearty and filling and perfect for winter.
For my secundo, I turned to my trusty waitress again. She asked if I liked "picante," and I assured her I did. She brought me some peposo, a peppery beef stew originating from a small town near Florence. But it was entirely beef and spices and wine. They had apparently strained or crushed all the vegetables, which was fine with me. I tasted garlic, onion, and maybe a little celery and tomato. Great for any meat lover.
All the girls liked their food too. Of course we all enjoyed the olives, bread, and Prosecco. But I saw and got to taste some very appetizing things: Ravioli with ragu, spaghetti, pork stuffed with cheese and artichokes, and a seafood plate loaded with mussels, clams, scampi, and swordfish. And they had a truly amazing tiramisu. Not even comparable to the best kind you find in the states. Incredible.
Via Ghibellina, 70 Rosso
Firenze, Italia 50122
055.2638940
http://www.tirovino.com
Monday, February 11, 2008
Trattoria Tirovino
This wonderful place is closer to my apartment than our trash can. Seriously. And I’m so glad / my wallet is so upset. Henk had told me some older students he knew recommended it. I knew I liked it when I saw on the front door, amongst credit card and rater stickers, a Vespa-sized bumper sticker that said “Life is too short for bad wine.”
When I sat down, I was immediately greeted with bread, olive oil, fresh olives, and a glass of Prosecco. (Champagne:France, Cava:Spain, Prosecco:Italy.) I am picky with olives but only because I have been forever spoiled by tasting true Mediterranean olives. These were the good kind. And they gave me the menu too. It's printed but is definitely a menu someone took great care to write entirely by hand, adding to the trattoria feeling.
I asked my waitress to suggest an antipasto (appetizer) for me. Her favorite was a savory vegetable flan covered with a creamy cheese sauce. It was great. Filling but surprisingly delicate in taste.
For my entrée, I got Trippa alla Fiorentina. I’d been hearing all about Florentine tripe and how it’s so popular here for both fine dishes and quick sandwiches. Completely correct. Don’t knock it until you try it. When properly prepared, tripe has a consistency like well-cooked squid (fork tender with a little bit of pleasant chew) and a beefy taste. This one was served in a tomato-based sauce along with a small dish of grated Parmesan to sprinkle. The saltiness and nuttiness of the Parmesan really complemented the pepper and cream in the sauce.
My only regret was that I didn’t order a lighter contorno (side dish) to balance out the entrée. But then again, I wouldn’t have finished either. Not that the dish was a huge serving, just that it was so rich.
When I sat down, I was immediately greeted with bread, olive oil, fresh olives, and a glass of Prosecco. (Champagne:France, Cava:Spain, Prosecco:Italy.) I am picky with olives but only because I have been forever spoiled by tasting true Mediterranean olives. These were the good kind. And they gave me the menu too. It's printed but is definitely a menu someone took great care to write entirely by hand, adding to the trattoria feeling.
I asked my waitress to suggest an antipasto (appetizer) for me. Her favorite was a savory vegetable flan covered with a creamy cheese sauce. It was great. Filling but surprisingly delicate in taste.
For my entrée, I got Trippa alla Fiorentina. I’d been hearing all about Florentine tripe and how it’s so popular here for both fine dishes and quick sandwiches. Completely correct. Don’t knock it until you try it. When properly prepared, tripe has a consistency like well-cooked squid (fork tender with a little bit of pleasant chew) and a beefy taste. This one was served in a tomato-based sauce along with a small dish of grated Parmesan to sprinkle. The saltiness and nuttiness of the Parmesan really complemented the pepper and cream in the sauce.
My only regret was that I didn’t order a lighter contorno (side dish) to balance out the entrée. But then again, I wouldn’t have finished either. Not that the dish was a huge serving, just that it was so rich.
Via Ghibellina, 70 Rosso
Firenze, Italia 50122
055.2638940
http://www.tirovino.com
Friday, February 8, 2008
Kome
Kome is a kaiten sushi restaurant, with a “barbeque” (hibachi?) room upstairs and a for-rent party room in the basement. Kaiten is currently the most popular way of eating sushi in Japan and is gaining popularity in the rest of the world. It’s a Japanese “rolling maneuver” in martial arts, but as far as sushi goes, it’s a conveyor belt that chefs put dishes on for customers to take at their leisure.Anyway, I was completely right. Japanese food is expensive (dare I say overpriced?) in this city. But it’s still delicious of course. My friend Jess and I had a craving, so we settled on Kome, which is relatively new and price-wise a compromise between the cheaper (yet still expensive) restaurant on my street and the even more elegant (super expensive) restaurant across the river.
Lucky for us and our friends, Kome has a lunch special that is 14.90∈ for six plates of your choice. (They have eight plates of different colors corresponding to different prices.) It was still a bit pricey, considering the sushi is either two nigiri or three maki (rolls), but the six plates separately cost about 23∈. Not all the plates are sushi. There is a selection of things like plain rice, miso soup, salad, and shrimp or vegetable tempura. There is also an option for dessert, be it green tea gelato or more Western items.
Unsurprisingly, I got miso soup, and five different sushi plates that involved avocado and/or salmon. But hey, at least I got what I wanted.
Via Dei Benci 41/R
Firenze
055.2008009
http://www.komefirenze.it
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Gelateria dei Neri
Gelateria dei Neri is open later than most of the other gelaterias, which is convenient for night owls like me and my friends. We've gone there a few times and every flavor I've tried so far has been quite good. (Gelato is, collectively, the best ice cream in the world. Other countries have specific ice creams that are better, but as a whole, Italy wins in my opinion.) My current favorite is the Nutella flavor. Typical I know but chocolate, hazelnuts, cold, creamy... What's not to like? The gelateria is also currently promoting a 50% off special on take-home cartons on Tuesdays and Fridays. These are made to order and I believe can be a combination of one to three flavors of your choice. I would buy it myself, but I feel like it wouldn't make it past me to my freezer.
Via Dei Neri 20/22r
Firenze, Toscana 50122 Italy
055.210.034
Friday, February 1, 2008
I Ghibellini
This place is dangerously a few blocks away from my house but luckily the prices aren’t bad. Henk, ‘Seppe, and I split a bottle of red wine while deciding what to order. Liane and we ended up ordering six pastas to share.
- Risotto – The rice was pretty much perfect but the wine wasn’t cooked through enough so it tasted a bit too strong.
- Lasagne – Good. Authentic. Enough said.
- “Fat” spaghetti. Thicker than the regular kind and in a sauce of tomatoes, onions, and pancetta. What’s not to love?
- Wild boar pasta – Sorry, I don’t remember the name. It’s like linguini but almost an inch wide. Very hearty. And boar is leaner but tastier than regular pork.
- Spaghetti – This was Liane’s pick. The shrimp was nothing to write home about, but the clams, squid, and mussels were excellent. Same with the sauce and pasta. It also had a nice kick to it. Not quite arriabata, but much more than marinara and seafood broth.
- Four-cheese tortellini with truffle cream sauce – By far everyone’s favorite. The tortellini were about three inches in diameter. The cheeses all melted and gushed out when you cut in, and they were generous with the truffles. One of the best pastas I’ve ever had.
Piazza S.P. Maggiore, 8/9/10
Florence, Italy 50122
(+39) 055 21.44.24
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