Thursday, January 10, 2008

El Chalan

The place is very subtle, the lowest level of an Eye Street building. Small-ish tables, Peruvian art to match the food, and just-comfortable-enough-but-full-of-character wooden chairs. But it's the kind of place so good it doesn't need to be loud or conspicuous in any way.

When I was in high school and my mom wanted to meet for lunch or have dinner after work, this was always my vote since it was so good and convenient - less than ten minutes away from my school and even less from her office.

We always got the two house specialties: Lomo saltado, beef tips sauteed with potato wedges, carrots and onions (especial made with tenderloin) or arroz con mariscos, which is exactly what it translates, rice with seafood... a Peruvian version of paella, less salty and less aggressive in flavor but just as tasty.
Last night, since my dad and I were uncharacteristically "not that hungry," the three of us split two appetizers, the arroz, and a stew. (If I hadn't had a steak for lunch, lomo saltado would surely have been ordered.)

One appetizer was the palta con palmito, a salad slices of avocado and hearts of palm topped with slices of boiled egg, onion, tomato, and a dressing. Simple and good. The other was ceviche mixto, exactly what it sounds like: Fish, shrimp, conch, and squid marinated in lemon, chilis, and onion. It came with a single (decorative?) mussel and corn and yam for a side of texture and sweet.
The arroz was as good as I remember, and the cabrito norteno was goat stewed with beer, vinegar, onion and spices. The flavors married so well the only thing I could pick out was "delicious." It came with beans and rice, hearty and simple, perfect to complement the fork-tender meat. Great with a glass or two of house red.

All dishes are served with their ridiculously tender fresh bread and butter and some magical super-concentrated hot sauce. (I affectionately referred to it as "the sauce hotter than Britney Spears" back in 2001.) I swear, a mere drop of this stuff has enough capsaicin to satisfy even a spicy addict like me, and the heat has the pleasant effect of lingering and growing in intensity.
1924 Eye Street, NW
Washington, DC 20006
202.293.2765
http://www.elchalanrestaurant.com

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